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Suit

of Countess palatine Dorothea Sabina von Neuburg
 
Vorderansicht mit und ohne Krause
 

Period: around 1600, Germany

This ladies' suit of Spanish fashion was based on the paintings from Lucas van Valkenborch and Moroni Ventaglio. We relied on the original cut of the countess' dress, which can be seen in the Bavarian National Museum in Munich.



The suit was crafted from red velvet with antique metal-braids. The sleeves are made of heavy, gold-inter-woven silk brocade, which has been bias-cut to uncover the underlying silk brocade. These slashed sleeves with wrist ruffs were still common during the Renaissance, whereas the lavish braid decorations already hint at the upcoming Baroque fashion.



This also applies to the bodice: its already slightly curved chest cut allows the bosom more room and is no longer squeezing it as in preceding decades. The top is completely stiffened and tabbed at the waist.

The opened overskirt uncovers the precious brocade underskirt. Long trailing sleeves are worn over the tighter sleeves of the actual dress. Besides its resplendence the geometric arrangement of the braids and the standing collar give this suit a rather serious character. Since it was designed for historical dancing we refrained from adding a train.



The suit can be worn with or without ruff. The necklace is a replica of an original Tudor pendant.

We used an original hoop petticoat design by Alceda (1589) as underskirt. The hoops are made of wicker making the skirt feather-light and yet sturdy enough to support the heavy outer garment. The round waistline is accomplished through an extra padding. Our customer wished for a front-lacing corset. We therefore decided to adapt an original Tudor corset of Elizabeth I., which meets this requirement; additionally its width can be adjusted at the back piece.



Price category: I